In late June, I had the pleasure of attending Festival MED, a remarkable annual world music festival that takes place in the city of Loulé in southern Portugal. Although World Music Central has been covering Festival MED for three years, this was my first visit.
Festival MED celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2024 and presented a superb lineup of Portuguese and international artists whose music, whether time-honored or contemporary, is rooted in folk traditions.
First, a little history about Loulé. Mediterranean cultures such as the Phoenicians and Carthaginians established trading posts in the southern Iberian Peninsula. This led to an increase in fishing activities, mineral prospecting, and commerce. Later came extensive Roman occupation. In the 5th century, conflict arose with the arrival of the Suevians, Vandals, and Visigoths, who also assimilated Roman cultural elements.
Moving into the 8th century, the Muslim Moors invaders established the fortified city of Al-‘Ulya’ (Loulé). In the 13th century, the Christian Reconquista reached Loulé when King Afonso III and D. Paio Peres Correia conquered the city in 1249.
The early 20th century saw significant architectural projects, including the construction of the Mercado Municipal de Loulé (city market). During the Estado Novo era, public lighting, water supply, and drainage systems were installed. Post-1926 developments included the modernization of Avenida José da Costa Mealha, the building of Cine-Teatro Louletano, and the construction of the Duarte Pacheco monument.
Durable Street Art
I started this section with the term durable street art. This is versus perishable street art that lasts for a limited time. I much prefer art that survives for a longer time, and I found that in Loulé. The first piece of art I noticed was a metal statue of António Fernandes Aleixo, who was born on February 18, 1899, in Vila Real de Santo António. He was a renowned Portuguese poet of the people. Despite his humble origins and semi-illiteracy, he became known for his sharp social criticism and ironic verses. His life was marked by poverty, various jobs, migration, family tragedies, and illness. He worked as a weaver, policeman, and construction worker, even in France. After returning to Portugal, he made Loulé his home. He sold lottery tickets and recited his poetry at fairs, earning the nickname “poet-ticket seller.” Aleixo died of tuberculosis on November 16, 1949, a disease that also claimed one of his daughters.
Aleixo’s literary style was characterized by spontaneity, a philosophical sense, and concise expression of moral thoughts. He often used common Portuguese verse forms and focused on social injustices and life’s hardships. His work was largely undocumented until Joaquim de Magalhães compiled his verses, resulting in the publication of Aleixo’s first poetry book, “Quando Começo a Cantar,” in 1943. His work gained appreciation from the public and notable figures, leading to his posthumous recognition and numerous tributes, including schools and streets named after him. Furthermore, his legacy remains significant in Portuguese literature, with several works published posthumously.
The statue of António Fernandes Aleixo is by Café Calcinha, a charming, historic coffee shop he frequented. This is a fine place to have breakfast (and other meals as well). Aside from enjoying the historical ambience, the food is delicious. I had breakfast there every day. If you like pastries, don’t forget to try the delicious folhado de Loulé, a mouthwatering puff pastry filled with custard cream.
Speaking of sweets, a different type of pastry that is popular in Portugal is the pasteis de nata. It is a small custard tart that you can find in most pastry shops and other eateries. I purchased an exquisite pasteis at the Mercado Municipal. It was freshly made and deeply satisfying.
Another attention-grabbing sculpture nearby is the bronze statue of a woman dressed in traditional clothing selling fruits and vegetables. The statue, made in bronze, was designed by Teresa Paulino and Pedro Félix.
The statue is right next to the popular Mercado Municipal de Loulé market, a place where you can find fish, meats, spices, tablecloths, wine, pastries, ice cream and many other goods.
Moving along, a larger art structure is located not far from the market, on the pleasant boulevard Avenida José da Costa Melha. It is a bandstand built in the middle of an intersection. This artwork is a tribute to municipal brass bands. It includes white statues of musicians playing wind instruments, cymbals, and a drum.
You can take a walk around the downtown area and discover charming, meandering narrow streets with cobblestone sidewalks and pavement. There are cafés, restaurants, ice cream parlors (we had delectable artisan ice cream at a place near Café Calcinha), gift stores for tourists and regular retail stores of all types.
Colorful sardine designs are the most popular items you’ll find in many products sold in souvenir shops, including tablecloths, kitchen towels and other textiles. Other stuff you can buy are ceramics and tiles. In addition, Loulé is in a region that is near the cork oaks, so you will also find plenty of products made with cork. However, be aware that many stores close on Sunday.
During Festival Med, in the evening and at night, part of the downtown area is fenced off, so you will need to purchase tickets to enter and enjoy the shows. Ticket prices are very affordable, and one ticket gives you access to all concerts.
Although I see tourists walking around in flip-flops and sandals, I find athletic shoes (or some other type of walking shoes) much more comfortable to navigate the old town area. Regardless, your thighs will get a good workout.
Geoparque Algarvensis
The city of Loulé is part of a consortium that proposed the Geoparque Algarvensis project. This initiative aims to promote the region’s identity, inspiration, transformation, and sense of belonging. The project encourages visitors to explore, stay, and invest in the area in a manner that respects its natural and cultural values. The goal is to create a sustainable and harmonious way of living that can be passed on to future generations.
Geoparque Algarvensis seeks to enhance social and territorial cohesion in the municipalities of Loulé, Silves, and Albufeira. It follows the UNESCO Geopark concept and aligns with sustainable development goals. By highlighting the area’s geological and natural heritage, the project aims to rethink the use of local resources for the benefit of the community, integrating nature, science, culture, art, and a sustainable economy.
Getting to Loulé
The closest airport is Faro International Airport, which is well-connected to many European countries. Loulé is about 18 km from the airport. In addition, there are buses that connect to various cities in Portugal and Spain.
If you drive from Lisbon, it is 264.7 km away. About a 2.5 hours drive.
Spain is not far away. You can drive from Seville to Loulé in about 2 hours (202.8 km).
For more information, visit the official festival website: https://festivalmed.cm-loule.pt/
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Author: Angel Romero
Angel Romero y Ruiz has dedicated his life to musical exploration. His efforts included the creation of two online portals, worldmusiccentral.org and musicasdelmundo.com. In addition, Angel is the co-founder of the Transglobal World Music Chart, a panel of world music DJs and writers that celebrates global sounds. Furthermore, he delved into the record business, producing world music studio albums and compilations. His works have appeared on Alula Records, Ellipsis Arts, Indígena Records and Music of the World.