Writer and musician John Phillpott travelled to Ireland before the pandemic struck and discovered a city where the music never stops…
The gulls following the ferry periodically dive into the ship’s foam-flecked wake, no doubt hoping to find an easy meal in the form of small fish that have been stunned by the propellers.
Fascinated, we watch these avian opportunists as the deck pushes at our feet, the more determined of us swaying and trying to move in time with the unpredictable rhythms of the Irish Sea that lies just a few feet below.
Meanwhile, whitening knuckles grip hard on the stern rails, eyes straining to catch the last glimpses of the country where we had spent such an enjoyable few days.
Ireland slowly vanishes into the sea fog with just the outline of her hills visible. They appear like women’s breasts draped in green… yes, this is a female land, and the mother of so many people now scattered throughout the globe.
Of course, Ireland is the birthplace of many famous writers, poets, and also of a certain dark, strong drink that is known the world over.
But there is no doubt that Ireland’s greatest gift to the planet has been her music. And when you visit this tiny country on Europe’s most westerly edges, you can be sure of one thing… you will never be far from the sounds of accordion, fiddle, uilleann pipes, guitar, low whistle and Irish bouzouki.
Traditional Irish music is as old as the hills from whence it sprang. It is an ancient cultural pastime and art form that is embedded into the fabric of Irish identity, and is much loved and respected by those who share in Irish ancestry.
Passed down from generation to generation, this genre of folk music originates from times gone by. Yet our knowledge of this indigenous music stems only from the 18th century onwards.
But where does the musical traveller begin his or her quest for knowledge?
Well, a good starting point would be Cork. Set deep in the southerly Munster region, this riverside city is enjoying an unprecedented popularity boom, thanks to increasing numbers of travellers who are rapidly discovering what was once the country’s best-kept secret.
And if you really want to catch the action while you’re there, then you must not fail to visit The Oliver Plunkett, arguably the epicentre of a vibrant city rapidly becoming renowned for both its food and music.
From early evening to well past the midnight hour, this centrally placed pub in the street of the same name is filled with the sights and sounds that embody everything we have come to know and love about Ireland.
The Oliver Plunkett is named after the last Catholic martyr to be executed in England. The Archbishop of Armagh and Primate of All-Ireland, he was implicated in the so-called Popish Plot, a conspiracy concocted by English clergyman Titus Oates in 1678, which claimed that there was a plan to kill King Charles II.
Ireland loves her heroes and the unfortunate cleric lives on in the form of this lively establishment where live bands and duos perform non-stop, seven days a week.
Downstairs the styles can vary, often featuring bands that enjoy no small degree of local and regional fame. Meanwhile, upstairs in The Frisky Whiskey bar, the material tends to be more traditional, ranging from old favourites such as The Black Velvet Band, Whiskey in the Jar and any number of jigs and reels.
Resident step-dancers often join the performers onstage, which further add to the electrifying atmosphere.
In fact, Oliver Plunkett Street is a thoroughfare that personifies the beating heart of Cork. Walking down this avenue of sound that runs parallel to the River Lee, music collides headlong with your senses.
It spills out from bars and from side streets, greeting the ears like myriad conversations. Meanwhile, buskers ply their various trades from side streets or outside shops.
This may not exactly be Beale Street in Memphis or Nashville’s Grand Ole Opry, but the feeling might as well be the same. Without doubt, Cork is a city that doesn’t sleep. Or so it seems.
Much of the world’s best folk music has been forged on the anvil of suffering and oppression, and this is particularly true of Ireland, a country that is steeped in a troubled history.
And the legacies of days gone by are never more than a street corner away in Cork, for the city’s chequered past is well documented by the Elizabeth Fort in Barrack Street.
This star-shaped fortification was built in the aftermath of the Battle of Kinsale in 1601. The structure served to reinforce English dominance and protect the walled city.
It performed numerous functions during its long lifetime, including use as a military barracks, a convict depot for the transportation of women prisoners, and a food depot during the Great Famine of the 1840s.
Built just after the Napoleonic Wars, Cork City Gaol was actually a vast improvement on the barbaric conditions previously endured by prisoners. But people still faced long sentences for relatively minor offences, such as stealing food.
Perhaps ironically, Cork these days is rapidly becoming a hotspot for gourmets. Because of its proximity to the Atlantic, seafood in all its forms is the city’s specialty. And the portions are generous, too.
For well over two centuries, the English Market has supplied the people of Cork with fresh fish, meat, fruit and vegetables. The origins of the market can be traced back to 1610, although the present building dates from 1786.
Not far from Cork is the small town of Kinsale. Occasionally battered by the Atlantic gales, many of the brightly painted houses seem to shout their defiance as if to challenge the mighty ocean to do its worst.
Once again, the pubs in this otherwise quiet backwater are brimming with the sounds of folk music. There is a warm welcome hanging in the air… you can just feel it walking down the street.
Kinsale’s inhabitants invited the Spanish over in 1601 to help them in their struggle against the English. They lost the ensuing battle and so the victorious sons of Albion built Charles Fort to make sure there were no further invasions.
The city of Cork was founded in the seventh century by St Fin Barre who built a monastery on the site where the cathedral now stands. Situated around four miles from Cork, Blarney Castle is most famous for its stone, said to have the traditional power of conferring eloquence on all those who kiss it.
And just outside the city lies the port of Cobh, from where the Titanic left on its ill-fated maiden voyage in April, 1912. The Titanic Experience takes you back to that fateful time, courtesy of expert guides and evocative visual displays.
Not far away is Spike Island, a grey-walled fortress that held hundreds of prisoners awaiting transportation to the Americas or Australia.
But back at The Oliver Plunkett, all thoughts of Ireland’s tragic history are easily dispelled. As we walk up the stairs to the Frisky Whiskey Bar, past the memorial wall to that famous son of Cork, the late blues-rocker Rory Gallagher, we hit a wall of sound… the siren wail of uilleann pipes, accordion, penny whistle and hard-strummed rhythm guitars.
Yes, the people of Ireland may have experienced trouble and hardship during their long history. But what triumphs above all adversity is the indomitable optimism of so many, and their dogged ability to have a good time, despite all the odds.
And if there’s one place that typifies that unquenchable spirit then it must be The Oliver Plunkett… not so much a pub, more a way of life for whoever walks through its welcoming, ever-open doors.
Author: John Philpott
Author and journalist John Phillpott has written for many newspapers and magazines during a career that spans more than 50 years. His latest book Go and Make the Tea, Boy! is a memoir of his days as a young reporter.